Panam Reports
Extract from Panam Report 3, by James Walker
By
Feb 10, 2006, 11:29

After returning to Durango, our journey took us along the main road towards the Sierra de Órganos, now a National Park which has curious rock formations and mountains, and was where several John Wayne Westerns were filmed. The area is named after the basalt columns, which are supposed to resemble organ pipes.

We next passed through Sombrerete, a small but lively and pretty colonial silver mining town, and a good place to get a bite to eat.

It’s a two-hour drive along a fast main road to Zacatecas, a wonderful, interesting and attractive city which has obviously enjoyed the benefits of its silver mining past. It once boasted the largest silver mine in the world, processing 10,000 tonnes of ore a day. It is built in a ravine with pink stone houses scattered over the hills.

The Centro Historico gives the impression that it has not changed in the past two centuries. Steeped in history, Zacatecas has many fine examples of very interesting architecture, especially the wonderfully ornate cathedral which proudly resides at its centre, which is beautifully illuminated at night.

Our hotel built around a bull ring, Zacatecas

On our way out of Zacatecas the next morning, we headed towards Lagos de Moreno, which is a charming small town with a friendly atmosphere. Our road was lined with various restaurants and shops leading towards a gorgeous small park.

About 35 minutes later we were in León a large, modern city. We plotted an interesting route through, passing some fine examples of colonial architecture including a good monumental archway in the centre of a roundabout.

The journey from León to Guanajuato was about 55km and took approximately 45 minutes. Guanajuato’s historic centre, which we reached via a cable car after parking up at the hotel, was simply wonderful and very cosmopolitan. It is everything that Zacatecas was and more. The architecture is stunning and abundant, and there is a wonderful atmosphere, with many people taking to the streets at night whilst music fills the air. This city is most certainly worthy of its UNESCO world status and it has to be one of the most romantic places that I have visited.

Whilst in Guanajuato we also visited several museums and attractions, including the Museo Iconográfico (based in the heart of the city centre). This has an excellent collection of paintings, drawing and sculptures, including works by Dalí and Picasso. We also visited the Hidalgo market, another example of Guanajuato’s fine architecture, where you can buy practically anything – a great place to pick up local handicrafts.

On Friday 27 January we left Guanajuato and headed for Mexico City. Our first stop was Celaya, an attractive old town with an ornate cathedral. From here we took a twisty asphalt road via Zitacuaro to Ixtapan de Oro and the impressive Salto de Chihuahua waterfall, which was in full spate.

We stopped the night in Valle de Bravo, a very pretty and prosperous lakeside town - an ideal spot for lunch when we visit in November.

Next morning, around 35km along the road, we discovered an opportunity to see the amazing Monarch butterflies. Kurt and I decided to take a horse ride up into the forest to view the butterflies instead of walking. The sight of millions of Monarch butterflies in their natural winter habitat is simply spectacular – a definite highlight of the trip.

The Monarch Butterflies

Soon after we took the spectacular 29km gravel road up the Nevado de Toluca, one of Mexico’s highest volcanoes. At the crater rim some 14,000ft above above sea level, we looked out over a fantastic view and peered down into to the deep blue lakes of the Sun and the Moon.

After the sun had set, we travelled the 1 hour 15 minute journey down into Mexico City to our hotel, which is in an ideal location within the city. The best words I can use to describe Mexico City are brilliant and manic! It is a bit like London except that things seems to move faster. It is unlike anywhere I have ever visited before and quite a sight to behold.

Mexico City

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