(8 March) Riviera Maya to Belize


On the morning of Sunday 12 February we left our hotel on the Riviera Maya and headed south along the coast road towards the Belize border. The first stop of our day was the Maya site of Muyil, about 62 km and 40 minutes away.

Muyil was one of the smallest and quietest Maya sites that we had visited. The ruins, in a very natural rainforest environment, are interesting although in some places in quite bad repair - a sharp contrast to the organised tourist location that was Tulum. It was nice to be able to walk freely around without worrying about getting in the way of someone’s camera.

We had to stop the night in the small border town of Chetumal, waiting for our insurance certificate to arrive. Next morning, we split up, Arne and Kurt staying behind with Lupita for another day while I went ahead into Belize. I was met at the border by a very helpful gentleman from Belize Dive Connections, who are making our tour arrangements.

He took me about 65 km down the asphalt highway to Orange Walk, where we boarded a small motor boat for the hour-long trip to Lamanai This journey up the tropical New River, reminiscent of Conrad’s Heart of Darkness, has to be one of the highlights of our trip so far. We stopped several times to look at fine examples of birdlife. We paused near the Menonite community of Shipyard, as our guide told us the story of its inhabitants. Sadly, we saw no crocodiles.

Lamanai Maya Site, Belize

The amazing Lamanai ruins are my personal favourite of those that we have seen so far. From the moment you leave the boat there is no doubt that you are in the jungle. The thick writhing vegetation presses upon the path and almost encases you. It is filled with wildlife - I saw black howler monkeys, and the previous week had discovered a six foot boa constrictor. As I hate snakes, I was not at all impressed by this news! You feel as if it will revert to virgin jungle as soon as the last visitor leaves at night.

The impressive Maya ruins loomed suddenly out of the jungle. Our guide explained vividly the history of the site. After about 45 minutes, it was time for the boat trip back.

Lanami ruin feature, Belize

Kurt and Arne went to Lamanai the next day by the dirt road from Orange Walk, a round trip of some 110 km which took around 2 hours 30 minutes - this would be an option for Panam participants who miss the boat. They then visited the Crooked Tree Nature Reserve, about 36 km and 30 minutes away.

We joined up the following evening at the Radisson Fort George Hotel, near the heart of Belize City and next to the Marina. The bedrooms are very spacious and enjoy good views to either the ocean or the swimming pool.

A five minute walk from the Fort George Hotel, there is a large duty free complex, built for the passengers of the many cruise ships. Here, you can buy a wide range of different products at highly discounted prices - jewellery, clothing, perfume, handicrafts, alcohol and cigarettes. Visitors who are not cruise ship passengers can get in by producing their passport.

I also met with Shakira Oxley of the Belize Tourism Board, who kindly offered to help ensure the smooth passage of our vehicles through Belize’s borders, and had two meetings with Teresa Parkey of Belize Dive Connections, who (as well as the Lamanai boat trip) are arranging our optional scuba diving and snorkelling excursions. Sadly, our earlier delays meant that we didn’t have time to test-drive these, but as they go out to what aficionados reckon to be the finest coral reef in the world, I guess they are probably pretty good.

Belize is a wonderful little country, still with many reminders of its former colonial status as British Honduras. As English is widely spoken, I think our clients will love it.

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