Those who want to get quickly into Bangkok can cut these sections and go straight up the main road, as can those who prefer the detour to see the Bridge on the River Kwai. This is quite an easy 150km extra, and was more interesting than I thought it would be, with a display of locomotives and the option of a trip on a little diesel train. We had a good meal in a restaurant by the bridge. The run into Bangkok was easier than we thought it would be, thanks to expressways which took us to within 2 km of our hotel.

The Bridge on the River Kwai

Japanese rail lorry

Bangkok was of course wonderful. Our hotel, the Oriental, has been voted the world’s best, and we found it excellent in every way, particularly the superb rooms, the outstanding service and the magnificent food - particularly the wonderful buffet at the outdoor riverside restaurant at both dinner and breakfast.

View of Bangkok from Oriental Hotel

The Oriental is an ideal location for a rest day, as it is right alongside a boat station, and so has easy access to the exquisite temples and monuments of the royal palace area, which are NOT to be missed. Other sights, including shops and markets, are also within easy reach.

Royal palace, Bangkok

Leaving Bangkok, in less than 2.5km we were once more on an elevated expressway. We decided to avoid the crowded coastal plain past Pattaya and head inland. Our first 100km, through Bangkok’s sprawling suburbs and industrial belt, were covered in little more than an hour, and soon after we were on Route 3259, an excellent fast quiet road through prosperous farming countryside. As we climbed into wooded hills, we saw elephant droppings on the road. After another 100km we started to run parallel to the Cambodian border, through the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains. Here we found a very enjoyable 14km section on gravel roads, and roadbooked the tar alternative in case it is needed (or people prefer it).

Another 90 km of good secondary roads through hilly countryside brought us to the coastal highway near Trat, and an easy run to the Cambodian border. Here, as at all other frontier crossings, we were ably assisted on both the Thai and Cambodian sides by our Diethelm colleagues. The only slight hiccup, which we met virtually everywhere, was the need to explain to sometimes sceptical customs officers the importance of getting our Carnet de Passage stamped and the appropriate slip removed. This should not be a problem on the event, as Diethelm’s staff are now clued up (and we will be preceded by Arne in a 48/24 hr car).

Our hotel, the Koh Kong International Resort, is a luxurious modern casino complex right alongside the Cambodian border post, so that Thai high rollers can slip in without going through immigration formalities.

First glimpse of Cambodia: Koh Kong International Resort

Cambodia is very different from Thailand or Malaysia: a real third world country, most of whose inhabitants struggle against serious poverty, resulting in part from their involvement in the Vietnam War and from the monstrous draconian Pol Pot regime. Knowing the country is still part of “Francophonie”, the loose commonwealth of supposedly French-speaking nations sponsored by the French Government, I tried speaking French to a few people, to be gently told that virtually no-one speaks the language now; in Pol Pot’s time, to do so was virtually an automatic death sentence.

But don’t get the wrong idea. Cambodia is now a young country, and the new generation are lively and optimistic. It is a very positive, heartening place to visit.

Restaurant, Kampot

From Koh Kong, we took the new 140 km Route 48, bankrolled by the Thai Government to facilitate timber extraction, which now links this distant corner with the rest of the country. It’s a wonderful fast road that turns and swoops through what was previously virgin forest, giving some fine views. We had to use ferries to cross a couple of rivers, but the bridges are complete and can be used as soon as the right politician cuts the tape.

: The new bridge on Route 48 is finished but not officially open, so we had to take the ferry.

We had planned that the highlight of this day would be a visit to Bokor, a ghost hill station built by the French in the last century, whose substantial period buildings are now atmospheric ruins, high on a mountain overlooking the ocean. However, when we reached the foot of the access road, we were turned back: sadly, the site is closed for development as a resort complex.

But after a couple of days exploring many different options, we were able to find a very attractive alternative route, pausing to explore the attractive old town of Kampot (where we found a very good restaurant), then driving through fishing villages [0638, 0636, 0633, 0644] and the nice little seaside resort of Kep, before heading north towards Phnom Penh.

Scenes from a fishing village on Cambodia’s south coast: the fish is landed...

... and quickly put on sale...

...alongside local fruit ...

... and live chickens, brought in (like most other things) by motor bike

. There are two or three interesting places to pause along the way, including the chilling site of Choeung Ek, the killing fields, which I found profoundly moving.

Thirty-five years ago, they were teachers, doctors, students

But do not enter this pleasant, lively city in too heavy a mood; come and have your spirit lightened by a new generation.

John Brown

A happy waggonload of monks

Back to page 1

© Copyright 4x4xplore.com