Spares and Equipment
Here is our suggested checklist for classic cars - 4x4s are hopefully not as vulnerable, but this list is still largely applicable (again, not comprehensive):
- 5 litres of drinking water (preferably bottled mineral water) per person (compulsory for all crews)
2 Spare Parts
- two spare wheels (both properly mounted; at least one accessible without major unloading).
- spare fuel container(s): properly designed metal cans (e g 20-litre jerricans) to give you a range of up to 500 km. These should not be filled except when necessary, and must be securely fastened. They must not be carried in the passenger compartment.
- additional spare inner tube(s)
- fanbelt (or 2)
- top & bottom radiator hoses
- extra coil (NB this can be wired in place so it can be connected quickly if required)
- extra fuel pump (NB this can be wired in place so it can be connected quickly if required
- distributor cap (possibly, distributor unit too)
- rotor arm
- set of points
- set of spark plugs
- voltage regulator
- spare electrical switch(es)
- light bulbs (full set, including interior/map lights!- in some countries, it is a legal requirement to carry a spare set of bulbs)
- wiper blades (fit new ones before the event, too)
- spare radiator cap (and/or wire/chain the cap to the bodywork)
- spare fuel filler cap (and/or wire/chain the cap to the bodywork)
- speedo cable (especially if relying on speedo-driven Halda)
- extra set of wheelnuts (or centre-lock spinners, one for each direction)
- extra set of wheel studs
- gasket set
- temporary windscreen
- if you can spare the weight: bigger items such as dynamo, an alternator, battery, halfshafts, etc., especially if these are weak points on your car
3 Tools etc.
- 2 electric torches, with spare batteries and bulbs
- warning triangle (compulsory - a cheap light one is best, as you’ll probably leave it behind if you have to use it!)
- top quality tow rope: long and strong, and preferably with shackles at each end: (A winch is not essential)
- jump leads
- engine oil: 1 or 2 litres (replenish by buying en route)
- tube of grease
- funnel (cranked, if necessary, or add old rad hose - plastic funnel is lighter than metal)
- top class fuel filter (possibly combined with above)
- heavy duty jack - a trolley or high-lift jack if your car can easily carry it - together with strengthened and accessible jacking points
- strong flat bit of wood, for putting jack on
- axle stands - heavy but desirable if you can carry them (get aluminium ones if possible) (NEVER get under the car when it’s on the jack alone - put the spare wheel under the sill, if that’s all you’ve got)
- reasonably strong plastic sheet or old sack, for lying under the car on
- usual toolbag: spanners, socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, snips, Allen keys, star drives, plug spanner, feeler gauges, adjustable spanners, Mole wrench, sharp knife, hand drill, etc.
- tyre levers (optional - they are heavy) - again consider aluminium ones
- magnet on flexible stalk
- good wheelbrace (not the flimsy standard item - carry that as spare)
- spare nuts, bolts, washers, etc.
- half a dozen bungee straps (the rallyman’s no 1 friend!)
- big roll of genuine, strong canvas tank tape - the real article is VERY expensive, so don’t lend it!
- lots of cable ties (strong nylon ones are the most versatile)
- good lengths of electrical wire, for emergency repairs (including tying things back on)
- insulating tape and/or masking tape
- armoured plastic tubing
- aerosol of puncture mousse
- Jubilee clips, medium and small, for (i) rad hoses; (ii) fuel lines
- screen cleaning detergent
- screenwash/antifreeze fluid
- radiator welding fluid
- gasket leak ditto
- tube of Gun Gum
- tube of Swarfega
- leather/cloth for cleaning screen
- Araldite/superglue/JB weld
- de-icing fluid, and scraper
- your vehicle’s owner’s manual, and preferably workshop manual
If you can, go round the vehicle to check what spanners/sockets/drivers you actually need to work on key components, and take just these.
You will note that a lot of the above items are for crudely lashing things back together, when they break or fall off. Well, that’s rallying!
Fit strong bumpers and towing eye; these should be mounted quite high, and not too far under the vehicle, up for easy access.
Paradoxically, exhaust systems which are slightly loose-fitting are less likely to fracture than those which are welded up solid. Steel battery-straps slung from the chassis under the exhaust will keep it from falling off altogether if it does break.